Horses on the Beach?
Horses on the Beach!
When I was a little girl I was always infatuated with horses. I think at some point everyone is. They are beautiful and big and strong. Unfortunately for me, I am allergic. Of all the things to have to avoid, as a little girl this was a tough one. All I wanted to do was ride them, pet them and love on them. I have since mostly grown out of this allergy, but alas adults don’t get many opportunities to saddle up. When I moved to Hampstead nine years ago I had heard of the majestic island of Shakelford Banks and its mysterious wild horses. Wild horses? I mean who knew those even existed! On a barrier ISLAND? How!? Why?! I immediately put it on the list of things I must do and immediately forgot about it. Well, just this week I was fortunate enough to remember that island and those horses. I did a little research and my son and I hopped in the car, headed North to the small coastal town of Beaufort, NC. Now, I could blog all day about Beaufort and maybe another day I will, because this quaint seaside town is straight out of a Nicolas Sparks novel.
Once there, you can buy your ferry tickets for your day trip. I recommend if coming during the season from April - October you purchase them in advance to make sure you have a seat on the boat! We weren’t so prepared and arrived just 20 minutes before the first departure of the day and we were fine! We opted for a 2 hour stay on the island (the temperature outside was a bit chilly) and to be honest I wasn't sure what to expect. The ferry ride is quick, only about 20 minutes and it's very scenic! You pass right by the Rachel Carson Preserve which is home to a series of small islands and you guessed it - wild horses! A herd of feral horses believed to be English roam freely on the island. On the way to Shakelford you can also get a glimpse of Fort Macon. Built in the early 1800s to defend the coast, Fort Macon played a key role in the Civil War and today is the centerpiece of Fort Macon State Park.
Finally we arrived on Shakleford and my excitement was palpable. A wild horse!!! The captain told everyone the places on the island that the horses liked to roam and to be patient and enjoy. Sometimes they are sunbathing on the beach when you arrive and sometimes you have to go looking for them. The island is 8 miles so lots to cover, but we had nothing but time and determination on our side. We gathered our things - I recommend bringing a backpack with you. Waters, snacks and of course sunscreen! You also need room to bring home shells because you will find them. Perfect cockle shells, sea glass, whelks, scotch bonnets, olive, and auger shells. I’m telling you, this is the shell seekers dream island. Once there we set foot towards the center of the island in search for our horses.
The horses have some mystery behind them as there are a few conflicting stories of how there could be a herd out in the middle of an island. Most believe they are to be descendants of Spanish mustangs that arrived over 400 years ago. While the exact origins are uncertain, the most widely accepted theory is that they came from Spanish shipwrecks during the 1500s and 1600s. Our area is known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic’ after all. Some historians have suggested that early European settlers or explorers may have left their horses behind intentionally either due to difficulties in maintaining them or to establish a free roaming herd for future use. Whatever the reason, they are here and they are incredible. Known as “Banker Horses,” they have survived in the harsh island environment for centuries, adapting to the limited freshwater sources and a diet of sea oats, marsh grass and other native vegetation.
It is truly a remarkable sight when you see your first. There just beyond the dunes, a horse. Not afraid of us, just munching on his lunch of sea oats. I was surprised how unfazed them seemed by our presence. They must be used tourists by now, snapping their photo, shrieking in delight at what I can only say seemed like a miracle. To witness a story of survival right in front of you. These small (smaller than I pictured in my head) pony like horses that have continued to thrive and survive despite the fact that they aren’t marine or coastal animals. They represent strength and an untamed spirit. Watching a horse eat sea oats with the backdrop of the blue Atlantic seems like something out of a fairytale and maybe that’s why Shakleford Banks is so special. For those few hours on that island with nothing but your backpack and camera, you are privy to one of nature’s most beautiful stories of resilience. There is something awe-inspiring about watching a horse and it's flowing mane gallop uninhibited across a beach. Today the horses do receive some protection from the National Park Service and the Foundation for Shackleford Horses. What an extraordinary experience I will never forget and to think it took me nine years, a 90 min car ride and a 20 minute ferry, but it was worth the wait!
Book your Ferry: https://islandferryadventures.com/
More info on Shakelford Banks:
https://www.crystalcoastnc.org/things-to-do/parks-and-nature/shackleford-banks/
- Jessie